{"id":7746,"date":"2025-09-12T09:00:00","date_gmt":"2025-09-12T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/acrylic-heat-bending\/"},"modified":"2025-09-12T09:00:00","modified_gmt":"2025-09-12T08:00:00","slug":"acrylic-heat-bending","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/acrylic-heat-bending\/","title":{"rendered":"Acrylic Heat Bending: Temperature, Radius and Annealing"},"content":{"rendered":"<style>\n.upl-blog{font-size:17px;line-height:1.78;color:#1f2937}\n.upl-blog p{margin:0 0 18px}\n.upl-blog h2{font-size:26px;line-height:1.3;color:#0b2b33;margin:46px 0 14px;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:-.015em}\n.upl-blog h3{font-size:19.5px;color:#0d3b47;margin:28px 0 10px;font-weight:700}\n.upl-blog ul,.upl-blog ol{margin:0 0 20px;padding-left:22px}\n.upl-blog li{margin:0 0 9px}\n.upl-blog figure{margin:0 0 34px}\n.upl-blog figure img{width:100%;height:auto;display:block;border-radius:10px}\n.upl-blog figcaption{font-size:13px;color:#6b7280;margin-top:10px;line-height:1.5}\n.upl-blog .toc{background:none;border:0;border-radius:0;padding:0;margin:0 0 34px}\n.upl-blog .toc .lwptoc{margin:0}\n.upl-blog .toc h4{margin:0 0 10px;font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#0d5563}\n.upl-blog .toc ol{margin:0;padding-left:18px;font-size:14.5px}\n.upl-blog .toc li{margin-bottom:6px}\n.upl-blog table{width:100%;border-collapse:collapse;font-size:14.5px;margin:0 0 10px}\n.upl-blog th{background:#0d3b47;color:#fff;text-align:left;padding:11px 13px;font-weight:600;font-size:13.5px;border:0}\n.upl-blog td{padding:11px 13px;border:0;border-bottom:1px solid #e8ebed;vertical-align:top}\n.upl-blog tbody tr:nth-child(even){background:#fafbfc}\n.upl-blog .tablecap{font-size:12.5px;color:#6b7280;margin:0 0 30px}\n.upl-blog .myth{background:#fff8ef;border:1px solid #f6ddbd;border-radius:8px;padding:16px 20px;margin:0 0 26px;font-size:15.5px}\n.upl-blog .myth b{color:#a85c10}\n.upl-blog .callout{background:#f2f8f9;border-radius:8px;padding:18px 22px;margin:0 0 26px;font-size:15.5px;border-left:3px solid #14707f}\n.upl-blog .faq h3{border-top:1px solid #eceff1;padding-top:22px;margin-top:0;font-size:18px}\n.upl-blog .faq h3:first-of-type{border-top:0;padding-top:0}\n.upl-blog .cta{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#0b2b33,#0d5563);color:#fff;border-radius:12px;padding:34px;margin:48px 0 30px}\n.upl-blog .cta h2,.upl-blog .cta .cta-h{color:#fff;margin:0 0 10px;font-size:24px;font-weight:700;line-height:1.3}\n.upl-blog .cta p{color:#c9dee3;margin:0 0 20px;font-size:16px}\n.upl-blog .btn{display:inline-block;background:#e07a1f;color:#fff;text-decoration:none;font-weight:700;padding:13px 26px;border-radius:8px;font-size:15.5px}\n.upl-blog .rel{border-top:1px solid #e8ebed;margin-top:40px;padding-top:26px}\n.upl-blog .rel h4{font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#6b7280;margin:0 0 14px}\n.upl-blog .rel ul{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}\n.upl-blog .rel li{padding:11px 0;border-bottom:1px dashed #e8ebed}\n.upl-blog .rel a{text-decoration:none;font-weight:600;font-size:15.5px}\n@media(max-width:640px){.upl-blog h2{font-size:22px}.upl-blog table{font-size:13px}.upl-blog .cta{padding:24px}}\n\/* \u5355\u7bc7\u9875\u9690\u85cf WhatsApp \u95ee\u5019\u5361\uff0c\u53ea\u4fdd\u7559\u5706\u5f62\u6c14\u6ce1\uff0c\u907f\u514d\u906e\u6321\u4fa7\u680f\u8be2\u76d8\u63d0\u4ea4\u6309\u94ae\u3002\n   \u6ce8\u610f\uff1aClick to Chat \u7684\u70b9\u51fb\u903b\u8f91\u662f\u300c\u95ee\u5019\u5361\u5143\u7d20\u5b58\u5728\u5c31\u4e0d\u8df3\u8f6c\u300d\uff0c\u53ea\u9760 CSS \u9690\u85cf\u4f1a\u8ba9\u6c14\u6ce1\u53d8\u6210\u6b7b\u94fe\u63a5\u3002\n   Code Snippets #9\u300cUPL single post: WhatsApp bubble jumps straight to chat\u300d\u8d1f\u8d23\u628a\u8be5\u8282\u70b9\u4ece DOM \u79fb\u9664\uff0c\n   \u4e0b\u9762\u8fd9\u6761 CSS \u53ea\u662f\u79fb\u9664\u524d\u7684\u89c6\u89c9\u515c\u5e95\u3002\u5220 #9 \u524d\u5fc5\u987b\u5148\u5220\u8fd9\u6761\u89c4\u5219\u3002 *\/\nbody.single-post .ht_ctc_chat_greetings_box{display:none !important}\n<\/style>\n<div class=\"upl-blog\">\n<figure>\n<img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/acrylic-heat-bending.jpg\" alt=\"Acrylic rod and tube being heat bent over a strip heater in a fabrication workshop\" width=\"1536\" height=\"909\"><figcaption>Acrylic bends beautifully at the right temperature and shatters at the wrong one. The whole craft is in the wait before the bend.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<div class=\"toc\"><\/div>\n<h2 id=\"why\">Why acrylic bends and polycarbonate does not<\/h2>\n<p>Thermoplastics soften when heated, so in principle any of them can be bent. In practice only a few can be bent into a usable part, and the reason is the width of the window between \"soft enough to form\" and \"hot enough to degrade or bubble\".<\/p>\n<p>Acrylic, poly(methyl methacrylate), has a glass transition around 105 \u00b0C and a practical forming range of about 150 to 180 \u00b0C. Within that range it becomes leathery and formable without decomposing, and it holds its shape on cooling. Polycarbonate has a higher glass transition, needs 180 to 220 \u00b0C, and absorbs moisture that turns to steam at those temperatures and blisters the sheet unless it is dried first. That is why polycarbonate is thermoformed but rarely hand-bent.<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>\u041c\u0430\u0442\u0435\u0440\u0438\u0430\u043b<\/th>\n<th>Glass transition<\/th>\n<th>Forming range<\/th>\n<th>Hand bending<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>PMMA (cast)<\/td>\n<td>105 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>150 \u2013 180 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>Excellent, the easiest<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>PMMA (extruded)<\/td>\n<td>105 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>145 \u2013 170 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>Good, but more spring-back<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>\u041f\u041a<\/td>\n<td>147 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>180 \u2013 220 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>Possible with drying, difficult<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>PVC (rigid)<\/td>\n<td>80 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>120 \u2013 150 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>Good, but degrades if overheated<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>PETG<\/td>\n<td>80 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>120 \u2013 160 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>Very easy, wide window<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>PS<\/td>\n<td>100 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>130 \u2013 160 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>Easy, but brittle after<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>PP<\/td>\n<td>\u221210 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>150 \u2013 170 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>Difficult, needs support<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p class=\"tablecap\">Table 1 \u2014 Forming windows. The width of the window, not the temperature, is what makes a material easy to bend.<\/p>\n<p>Acrylic's window is narrow in absolute terms but it is well defined and repeatable, which is what makes it the material of choice for display work, signage and architectural fabrication. It also has the property that it goes from rigid to leathery over a fairly short temperature range, so a bend is either right or obviously wrong with little in between.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"heating\">Heating: four ways, four different results<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>\u041c\u0435\u0442\u043e\u0434<\/th>\n<th>How it works<\/th>\n<th>\u041b\u0443\u0447\u0448\u0435\u0435 \u0434\u043b\u044f<\/th>\n<th>Watch out<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Strip heater (line bender)<\/td>\n<td>Narrow nichrome element, heats a line<\/td>\n<td>Straight bends in sheet up to 10 mm<\/td>\n<td>Only heats one face; must flip<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Hot air gun<\/td>\n<td>Forced hot air, local heating<\/td>\n<td>Repair, small radii, tube<\/td>\n<td>Uneven, easy to overheat one spot<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Convection oven<\/td>\n<td>Whole part heated evenly<\/td>\n<td>Multiple bends, complex shapes<\/td>\n<td>Slow, needs a jig, sags under its own weight<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Infrared \/ quartz<\/td>\n<td>Radiant heat, fast<\/td>\n<td>Thin sheet, high throughput<\/td>\n<td>Surface heats faster than the core<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p class=\"tablecap\">Table 2 \u2014 Heating methods. The strip heater is the standard for straight bends because it heats a controlled line rather than an area.<\/p>\n<p>The strip heater is the workhorse of acrylic fabrication and it has one characteristic flaw: it heats the face nearest the element. On a 6 mm sheet heated from one side, the near face reaches forming temperature while the far face is still 30 \u00b0C cooler, and bending at that point puts the tension on a cold, brittle surface. The standard practice is to heat, flip, heat again, and check that the material is soft through the thickness before bending.<\/p>\n<p>The check is done by feel and by eye. Properly heated acrylic is leathery: it resists a little when you push it and it springs back slowly. Under-heated acrylic is stiff and springs back instantly; over-heated acrylic is glossy-wet, starts to bubble, and smells sharply of monomer. That smell is the warning, and it comes about 10 \u00b0C before the material is ruined.<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Sheet thickness<\/th>\n<th>Strip heater time (per face)<\/th>\n<th>Oven time at 165 \u00b0C<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>2 mm<\/td>\n<td>30 \u2013 45 s<\/td>\n<td>4 \u2013 6 min<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>3 mm<\/td>\n<td>45 \u2013 75 s<\/td>\n<td>6 \u2013 9 min<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>5 mm<\/td>\n<td>1.5 \u2013 2.5 min<\/td>\n<td>10 \u2013 15 min<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>8 mm<\/td>\n<td>3 \u2013 4 min<\/td>\n<td>18 \u2013 25 min<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>10 mm<\/td>\n<td>4 \u2013 6 min<\/td>\n<td>25 \u2013 35 min<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>15 mm<\/td>\n<td>7 \u2013 10 min<\/td>\n<td>40 \u2013 55 min<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p class=\"tablecap\">Table 3 \u2014 Heating times. Roughly one minute per millimetre of thickness per face on a strip heater, and about three minutes per millimetre in an oven.<\/p>\n<p>These times scale with thickness because heat has to conduct through the material, and acrylic is a poor conductor at about 0.19 W\/m\u00b7K. Doubling the thickness roughly quadruples the time to reach a given core temperature, which is why bending 15 mm acrylic is a different job from bending 5 mm.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"radius\">Minimum radius, and why the outside thins<\/h2>\n<p>A bend stretches the outside of the curve and compresses the inside. The neutral axis stays the same length, the outside gets longer and thinner, and the inside gets shorter and thicker. On a tight radius the outside wall can thin by 20% or more.<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>Product<\/th>\n<th>Minimum inside radius<\/th>\n<th>Note<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Sheet, 2 \u2013 5 mm<\/td>\n<td>1 \u00d7 thickness<\/td>\n<td>Below this the outside crazes<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Sheet, 5 \u2013 10 mm<\/td>\n<td>1.5 \u00d7 thickness<\/td>\n<td>Sharper bends need local heating both sides<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Sheet over 10 mm<\/td>\n<td>2 \u00d7 thickness<\/td>\n<td>Consider machining the corner instead<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Rod, solid<\/td>\n<td>3 \u00d7 diameter<\/td>\n<td>Smaller radii ovalise the section<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Tube, thin wall<\/td>\n<td>3 \u00d7 OD<\/td>\n<td>Needs internal support<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Tube, thick wall<\/td>\n<td>5 \u00d7 OD<\/td>\n<td>Below this the wall collapses<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p class=\"tablecap\">Table 4 \u2014 Minimum bend radii. Sheet bends far tighter than tube because there is nothing to collapse.<\/p>\n<p>Tube is the harder case because the wall has nothing behind it. Bending a tube without internal support produces an oval section, a wrinkled inner radius and a thinned outer wall, and all three are visible on a clear tube. The three practical supports are dry sand, a low-melting alloy, and internal pressure.<\/p>\n<p>Dry sand is the traditional method and it works well for radii above about 4 \u00d7 OD. The tube is plugged at one end, filled with dry kiln sand, tamped, plugged, heated, bent over a former, cooled and then emptied. The sand supports the wall from inside and stops the ovalisation.<\/p>\n<p>Low-melting alloy \u2014 a bismuth alloy melting around 70 \u00b0C \u2014 is better for tight radii and thin walls because it is incompressible and it does not pack unevenly. It is melted out afterwards with hot water. It costs more and it is slower, but for a 2 \u00d7 OD bend on a thin-wall tube it is the only method that reliably holds the section.<\/p>\n<p>Internal pressure is used in production for larger radii: the tube is capped, pressurised to a low bar, and bent while hot. It is fast and it leaves no residue, but the tooling is more complex and the pressure has to be released before the tube cools or the ends distort.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"cooling\">Cooling and annealing<\/h2>\n<p>A bend that is cooled too fast will crack, and it may not crack for days. This is the single most common cause of a fabricated acrylic assembly failing in the field after passing inspection.<\/p>\n<p>Cooling a bend in air is fine for thin sheet. For anything above about 5 mm, and for any bend that will be machined or bonded afterwards, the part should be annealed.<\/p>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>\u0422\u043e\u043b\u0449\u0438\u043d\u0430<\/th>\n<th>Annealing temperature<\/th>\n<th>Soak time<\/th>\n<th>Cool-down<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>Up to 3 mm<\/td>\n<td>80 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>1 hour<\/td>\n<td>10 \u00b0C per hour<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>3 \u2013 6 mm<\/td>\n<td>80 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>2 hours<\/td>\n<td>10 \u00b0C per hour<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>6 \u2013 12 mm<\/td>\n<td>80 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>3 \u2013 4 hours<\/td>\n<td>10 \u00b0C per hour<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>12 \u2013 25 mm<\/td>\n<td>80 \u00b0C<\/td>\n<td>5 \u2013 8 hours<\/td>\n<td>8 \u2013 10 \u00b0C per hour<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p class=\"tablecap\">Table 5 \u2014 Annealing schedule for acrylic. The cool-down rate matters as much as the soak.<\/p>\n<p>The rule is about one hour at 80 \u00b0C per 3 mm of thickness, followed by a controlled ramp down. The ramp is the part people skip: pulling a part out of an 80 \u00b0C oven into a 20 \u00b0C shop quenches the surface and locks in a stress gradient that is worse than no annealing at all.<\/p>\n<p>Annealing matters most when the part will be solvent bonded. Solvent applied to a stressed, unannealed bend wicks into micro-cracks, softens the stressed layer, and the crack propagates. The bond fails two hours after assembly and the adhesive gets blamed. This is the same failure mode as laser-cut edges, and the same fix.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"defects\">Defects and what they tell you<\/h2>\n<table>\n<thead>\n<tr>\n<th>\u0414\u0435\u0444\u0435\u043a\u0442<\/th>\n<th>\u041f\u0440\u0438\u0447\u0438\u043d\u0430<\/th>\n<th>Fix<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td>White or frosted bend line<\/td>\n<td>Bent too cold<\/td>\n<td>More heat, both faces, slower bend<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Crazing along the outside radius<\/td>\n<td>Bent too cold, or too tight a radius<\/td>\n<td>Heat, and open the radius<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Bubbles in the bend<\/td>\n<td>Overheated, or moisture in the sheet<\/td>\n<td>Lower temperature, dry the sheet first<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Bend not holding angle<\/td>\n<td>Spring-back, or the part cooled in the jig under load<\/td>\n<td>Over-bend 2 \u2013 3\u00b0, hold until cool<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Oval tube section<\/td>\n<td>No internal support<\/td>\n<td>Sand or low-melting alloy<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Wrinkled inner radius on tube<\/td>\n<td>Radius too tight for the wall<\/td>\n<td>Open the radius, or use a thicker wall<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Crack days after fabrication<\/td>\n<td>Not annealed, or quench-cooled<\/td>\n<td>Anneal with a controlled ramp<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Gloss difference across the bend<\/td>\n<td>Uneven heating, or contact with the former<\/td>\n<td>Even heat, felt-lined former<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p class=\"tablecap\">Table 6 \u2014 Bending defects. The last two rows are the ones that fail after the part has been accepted.<\/p>\n<p>Spring-back is worth quantifying. Acrylic springs back 2 to 5\u00b0 depending on thickness and radius, so a 90\u00b0 bend is formed at 93 to 95\u00b0 and allowed to relax. The jig should be set to the over-bend angle, not the target angle, and the part should stay in the jig until it is below about 60 \u00b0C \u2014 which for a 6 mm sheet is several minutes.<\/p>\n<p>The gloss difference is the defect that surprises fabricators because it appears without any obvious cause. It happens when the heated sheet touches a cold former: the surface in contact cools faster and takes a slightly different surface finish. A felt or silicone-rubber lined former eliminates it, and it also prevents the tool marks that show up on a polished face.<\/p>\n<h2 id=\"practice\">Working practice for a reliable bend<\/h2>\n<p>Most of the craft is in preparation rather than in the bend itself.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Dry the sheet.<\/strong> Acrylic absorbs about 0.3% moisture and it will bubble if heated wet. For sheet that has been stored in a humid place, 2 to 4 hours at 80 \u00b0C before forming is standard, and it is the difference between a clear bend and a milky one.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Remove the masking.<\/strong> Paper masking on acrylic will scorch and leave a residue that is difficult to remove, and it also insulates the surface and slows the heat. Take it off before heating, or use a laser-safe film that tolerates the temperature.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Mark the bend line, do not score it.<\/strong> A scored line is a notch, and a notch on the outside of a bend is where the crack starts. Mark with a soft pencil or a peel-off tape.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Support the whole part.<\/strong> A sheet that is only held at one end will sag under its own weight as it softens, and the sag becomes a permanent wave. Support it on both sides of the bend line at the same height.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Bend in one movement.<\/strong> A hesitation in the middle of a bend leaves a visible line. Heat until the material is uniformly leathery, then bend steadily to the jig and hold.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Let it cool in the jig.<\/strong> Taking a part out while it is still warm means it relaxes back. For a 6 mm sheet that means holding for 5 to 10 minutes, which is why a fabricator with two jigs runs twice the throughput of one with one.<\/p>\n<div class=\"faq\">\n<h3>At what temperature does acrylic become bendable?<\/h3>\n<p>Around 150 \u00b0C it becomes leathery and formable, and the practical range is 150\u2013180 \u00b0C. Above about 180 \u00b0C it starts to bubble and release monomer, which is the smell of a ruined part.<\/p>\n<h3>Can acrylic be bent cold?<\/h3>\n<p>No. Cold bending produces crazing and then a crack. Polycarbonate can be cold bent to a large radius; acrylic cannot be cold bent at all.<\/p>\n<h3>What is the minimum bend radius for acrylic sheet?<\/h3>\n<p>About one times the thickness for sheet up to 5 mm, one and a half times from 5 to 10 mm, and twice the thickness above 10 mm. Tighter bends craze on the outside radius.<\/p>\n<h3>How do I bend acrylic tube without it collapsing?<\/h3>\n<p>Fill it. Dry sand works for radii above about 4 \u00d7 OD; a low-melting bismuth alloy works for tighter radii and thin walls. Without internal support the section ovalises and the inner radius wrinkles.<\/p>\n<h3>Why did my bend turn white?<\/h3>\n<p>It was bent too cold. The material yielded instead of flowing, and yielding in acrylic shows as a white stress mark. Heat both faces until the sheet is uniformly leathery before bending.<\/p>\n<h3>Why does my bend crack a few days later?<\/h3>\n<p>It was not annealed, or it was cooled too fast. Anneal at 80 \u00b0C for about an hour per 3 mm of thickness and ramp down at 10 \u00b0C per hour. Solvent bonding a stressed bend will also crack it.<\/p>\n<h3>How much does acrylic spring back?<\/h3>\n<p>Two to five degrees, depending on thickness and radius. Bend to 93\u201395\u00b0 for a 90\u00b0 target and hold in the jig until the part is below about 60 \u00b0C.<\/p>\n<h3>Can I bend acrylic with a heat gun?<\/h3>\n<p>For small radii and repairs, yes, but the heat is uneven and it is easy to overheat one spot. A strip heater gives a controlled line and a much more repeatable bend.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"cta\">\n<p class=\"cta-h\">Need bent acrylic to a repeatable radius?<\/p>\n<p>Send the section, the radius and the quantity. We will tell you whether it should be bent, machined from solid, or formed in a jig, and what the annealing schedule has to be if it will be bonded afterwards.<\/p>\n<p><a class=\"btn\" href=\"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/acrylic-rod\/\">Talk to an acrylic fabrication engineer<\/a>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"rel\">\n<h4>Continue reading<\/h4>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/machining-acrylic-rod\/\">Machining Acrylic Rod: Speeds, Feeds and Coolant<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/laser-cutting-acrylic\/\">Laser Cutting Acrylic: Parameters and Edge Quality<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/cast-vs-extruded-acrylic-rod\/\">Cast vs Extruded Acrylic Rod<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/storing-handling-acrylic-rod\/\">Storing and Handling Acrylic Rod<\/a><\/li>\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/acrylic-rod-defects\/\">Acrylic Rod Defects and Their Causes<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Acrylic bends beautifully at 150 to 180 C and shatters at the wrong temperature. Heating times, minimum radii, bending tube without collapse, and the anneal that stops late cracks.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7739,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_titles_title":"Acrylic Heat Bending: Temperature, Radius and Annealing","_seopress_titles_desc":"Acrylic bends beautifully at 150 to 180 C and shatters at the wrong temperature. Heating times, minimum radii, bending tube without collapse, and the annea","_seopress_robots_index":"","_seopress_robots_follow":"","_seopress_robots_imageindex":"","_seopress_robots_snippet":"","_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"38","_seopress_robots_breadcrumbs":"","_seopress_robots_freeze_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_custom_modified_date":"","_seopress_robots_canonical":"","_seopress_social_fb_title":"","_seopress_social_fb_desc":"","_seopress_social_fb_img":"","_seopress_social_fb_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_fb_img_height":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_title":"","_seopress_social_twitter_desc":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img":"","_seopress_social_twitter_img_attachment_id":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_width":0,"_seopress_social_twitter_img_height":0,"_seopress_redirections_value":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled":"","_seopress_redirections_enabled_regex":"","_seopress_redirections_logged_status":"","_seopress_redirections_param":"","_seopress_redirections_type":0,"_seopress_analysis_target_kw":"acrylic heat bending","footnotes":""},"categories":[38],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7746","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-acrylic-rod"],"meta_box":{"post-to-quiz_to":[]},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7746","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7746"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7746\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7739"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7746"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7746"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/uplastech.com\/ru\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7746"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}